So I've been in Hong Kong for 4 days now, and so much has happened that I've been putting off writing about it because at the end of the day I'm completely and utterly exhausted. In my life, I've noticed that sometimes I'll have trouble sleeping if I feel like I haven't done enough during the day, or that nothing has tired me out- That's 110% not an issue here. The overwhelming heat is enough to make a person tired, but once you add to that an incredibly fast paced city with a culture richer than a flourless chocolate cake, you're looking at the best sleep you'll probably ever get in your life.
But enough about sleep. Allow me to recount to you my first few days in this crazy place:
I flew out of San Francisco on Wednesday afternoon, and settled in for a 13 hour flight, scheduled to arrive at 6:35pm on Thursday, HK time. You lose an entire day when traveling to Hong Kong from crossing the international date line. The time difference from Boston is a well rounded 12 hours.
While on the flight, I thought it would be a great idea to try and beat the jet lag by forcing myself to get on HK time right away. Since I took off in the afternoon, California time, that meant taking a nap since it was super early in the morning in China. That sort of worked, except that I missed the one major meal of the flight. Here's the thing about long flights; they always serve the food according to where you're coming from, as opposed to where you're going to. So I "woke up" around 8am HK time, somewhere in the middle of the Pacific, to a gelato dessert from the dinner I didn't eat. But hey, ice cream for breakfast is great. Especially when it's mango flavored. A couple snack boxes and lots of cups of coffee later, we landed in Hong Kong.
My first night in the city was not great. The airport is incredibly efficient, but also incredibly busy, and waiting for the baggage claim took far longer than I was expecting. About an hour after we landed, I finally met my escort to the YMCA camp site where I'd be staying. The second we stepped outside, a wall of wet heat oozed over me and settled down into my soul, where it has remained thus far. We took the bus all the way to a suburb of the city called Ma On Shan, where the Wu Kwai Sha youth village is. (If Hong Kong Island is Staten Island, Ma On Shan is the Bronx). Unfortunately we got a little lost on the way, which wouldn't have been so bad had I not been awake for 26 hours and wearing heels as I lugged my 49 pound suitcase through the tropical heat in the dark. But eventually we made it, and I met my new home for the next 4 weeks.
I unpacked, and promptly passed out on the couch, where my roommate, a lovely German gentleman named Chris, found me and kindly didn't judge me for whining to him for the next 20 minutes about how horrible my night had been. After more apologetic babbling about my poor attitude, I finally went to bed.
The next day was so much better. I embarked on my first foray of the city with one goal: Find the ballet studio I planned to take classes at in my free time. Let me pause here to praise the subway system in Hong Kong; It is cleaner, faster, easier to understand, and more efficient than the systems IN ANY US CITY. So, I arrived at the ballet studio a full 45 minutes before class started. After dancing for two hours, (Classes here are actually 1 hour instead of the typical hour and 20-30 minutes, so most of the ladies at the studio just take two classes back to back) I felt ready to explore the city.
My dad gave me a tourist guide book that has proven incredibly helpful to me, not in the least because it has the Chinese translation of all major locations in case one should get lost. One does get lost in Hong Kong perpetually, so this is a key tool. My first meal in HK was actually a suggestion from this book; a French restaurant in a college town type area of the city. After that, I wandered around until I found Hong Kong Park; a beautiful little tropical forest complete with fountains, koi ponds, and a huge aviary. So that was awesome.
The next few days were filled with sightseeing and meeting my new boss, a wonderful woman named Connie who was kind enough to take me out to lunch upon meeting me, and spread her good grace far enough to come rescue me from the subway station two days later when I got lost on the way to work. Moral: NEVER leave your phone at home when in a foreign city.
Somewhere along the line another roommate arrived; a boy from California named Brian. He speaks fluent Cantonese, so he's incomprehensibly helpful to have around. We celebrated the fourth of July by wandering around the city; we even stopped by a summer carnival on our way to Kowloon to see the famous light show: Every night some of the tallest, fanciest sky scrapers on Hong Kong Island coordinate their lights to music piped out over the pier and boardwalk. It's pretty cool.
At some point Brian and I realized that Chris had never eaten Mac & Cheese, just one of many American staples that the rest of the world is smart enough to avoid. So we made it our mission to create a suitable substitute. While wandering around the city we found macaroni noodles and 4 cheese Italian sauce...a little fancy, but it would do. It ended up being alright, but it lacked the salty punch of processed powdered cheese that only Kraft can provide. The next day I found the beloved blue boxes in our local grocery store...right next to the dried chinese herbs and preserved meats...go figure. So we'll try that again some time soon.
I've made two visits to a local high school since arriving here; Once as part of an extracurricular English Ambassador program, where native English speakers from the community are brought in to have tea with the kids and practice their English with them. That was incredibly rewarding. I've noticed that these kids seem to have more of a genuine desire to learn...something most American students don't really get until college, if ever. They're endlessly curious about the world outside their own country which may be due in part to the fact that their schools place a much larger value on language learning that American schools do. One 14 year old girl I talked to had basically become fluent in English, so she was starting to learn Spanish, completely by her own choice. These kids are coming out of high school with two, if not three fluent languages. American kids are lucky if they can write a grammatically immaculate paper in their own language by the time they graduate.
The second visit was to judge their end of the year talent show. That was AWESOME. In addition to everything else, these kids are insanely musically talented. They love to sing and dance to American music, and interestingly enough, have better English accents when they sing to American songs than when they speak English. Just one example of how important the arts are in connecting cultures. They also love to dance to K-pop, which, although I know I'll never truly understand, I am beginning to have an appreciation for. Other major topics of interest include Taylor Swift, Starbucks, and Soccer (Football).
Last night, some British (female) interns arrived from another program, so I got to talk to girls, in English, for the first time since being here. That was much more theapiduc than I'd anticipated. Something I didn't realize until coming here was how truly difficult of a language English is, not in the least because most people don't speak it correctly 80% of the time. When talking to a non-native speaker, I constantly find myself adjusting my syntax, which is dumb both because I'm not expressing what I'm saying in the way I'd like, and because non-native speakers are taught a very, very correct English, and hearing a native speaker talk helps them to sort out what's grammatically correct vs what sounds natural.
Today, I'm working at a YMCA family center in the Quarry Bay area of Hong Kong Island. The commute is about an hour but it's worth it to see the amazing views. There's the one section of the trip where the tall industrial buildings against the green hills the city is surrounded by look VERY Hunger Games-ish, especially when seen from a high speed train window. It's really pretty eerie, I'll try to get a picture of it eventually.
Okay. Onwards and upwards! Sorry if anyone thought I was dead, usually I'm better at asserting my existence.